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SPECIAL STORY : Not on Roads, But on Water: The Incredible Rath Yatra of Chilika That Commemorates Lord Jagannath’s Exile
When the majestic chariots of Lord Jagannath, Lord Balabhadra and Devi Subhadra roll through the Grand Road of Puri every year, millions of devotees gather to witness one of the world’s largest religious festivals. Across India and beyond, Rath Yatra is traditionally celebrated with beautifully decorated wooden chariots pulled by devotees through the streets. But hidden amid the serene waters of Odisha’s Chilika Lake lies a centuries-old tradition unlike any other—where the Holy Trinity embarks on their annual journey not on wheels, but on boats.
Located near Nairi village in Odisha’s Khurda district, Kankana Sikhari Srikhetra hosts what is perhaps the most unique Rath Yatra in the world. Here, the nine-day annual sojourn of Lord Jagannath, Lord Balabhadra and Devi Subhadra takes place on the tranquil waters of Asia’s largest brackish water lagoon, commemorating one of the most significant chapters in Jagannath history—the Lord’s exile.
The tradition is deeply rooted in the turbulent past of the Jagannath Temple in Puri. Over the centuries, repeated invasions by Mughal and Afghan forces threatened the sanctity of the revered shrine. To protect the sacred idols from desecration and plunder, the temple servitors secretly moved the deities to several hidden locations across Odisha. Among the safest refuges were the islands of Chilika Lake, including Kankana Sikhari, Gurubai and Chakanasi, where the Holy Trinity stayed for extended periods before eventually returning to the Srimandir.
Kankana Sikhari is not merely a place of refuge; it is a living symbol of devotion, resilience and the unwavering efforts of generations of servitors who risked their lives to preserve the Jagannath tradition. Local folklore recalls that during the deities’ stay on the island, fresh water for daily rituals was brought from the nearby Jamuna Nirjhara. The island was also known for cultivating spiny gourd, locally called kankada, which was regularly offered to the Lords as sacred bhoga. Historians and locals believe this practice eventually gave the place its name—Kankana Sikhari.
The Rath Yatra observed here has evolved over time while preserving its spiritual essence. In its early years, the annual procession was carried out using traditional bullock carts in nearby Nairi village. As generations passed, boats replaced the carts, giving birth to a remarkable tradition found nowhere else. Today, the beautifully adorned deities are ceremonially placed aboard decorated boats and taken across the shimmering waters of Chilika during the nine-day festival.
The spectacle is nothing short of extraordinary. The calm expanse of the lake, the rhythmic chants of devotees, the echoes of conch shells and cymbals, and the sight of the Holy Trinity gliding across the water create a deeply spiritual atmosphere. Thousands of devotees travel to this secluded island every year to witness a Rath Yatra that seamlessly blends history, faith and nature.
While the world knows Lord Jagannath’s Rath Yatra as a grand procession on land, Kankana Sikhari preserves a rare and sacred legacy born out of a time of adversity. It is not merely a festival but a living remembrance of the Lord’s exile, the courage of His devotees and the enduring spirit of a tradition that continues to sail gracefully through the waters of Chilika, making it one of the most extraordinary celebrations of Jagannath culture anywhere in the world.
